Chainpur, Bajhang – Culture, Hills & the Simplicity of Western Nepal

About Chainpur

Chainpur is the district headquarters of Bajhang, located in the Sudurpashchim Province. Sitting at an elevation of about 1,300 meters (4,265 feet), it’s framed by terraced fields and pine forests. The town itself has a small bazaar, administrative offices, tea houses, and quiet neighborhoods that stretch toward the hills.

It is not a polished tourist destination. You won’t find WiFi in every corner or fancy restaurants here. What you will find is a slower rhythm — locals drying corn on rooftops, children playing with homemade toys, and the occasional bell from a temple in the distance.

The majority of residents belong to communities such as Chhetris, Thakuris, Dalits, and Brahmins, and the Bajhangi dialect is commonly spoken alongside Nepali. Agriculture is the main source of income, with most families growing millet, maize, lentils, and seasonal vegetables.

Weekly haat bazaars (open-air markets) are still central to life in Chainpur, where villagers walk for hours to buy and sell fresh produce, grains, clothes, or livestock.

History of Chainpur

Historically, Chainpur served as the seat of the Bajhangi royal family. The Bajhang Durbar (palace), though partially in ruins, still stands today. It's a quiet reminder of the region’s importance during the unification of Nepal and its connections to local leadership systems.

The town also had a reputation for craftsmanship — particularly in blacksmithing and silverwork. Khukuris, the iconic Nepali knives, were forged here and supplied to various hill regions. Many of these traditions still survive in small workshops tucked into the alleys behind the market.

While modern amenities are slowly arriving, Chainpur has retained a strong sense of its identity. It’s a place where oral storytelling, festivals, and faith are still deeply woven into everyday life.

Top Places to Visit in Chainpur

1. Bajhang Durbar (Royal Palace)

   • Once the residence of Bajhang’s royal family, this small palace complex still showcases stone construction and traditional wooden windows. While not fully restored, its historical value makes it worth a visit.

   • Location: Near Chainpur Bazaar

2. Devisthan Temple

   • A sacred temple dedicated to local deities. It’s simple in structure but central to community faith. Especially vibrant during Dashain and Gaura Parva.

   • Location: 10-minute walk from the bazaar

3. Seti Riverbank

   • The Seti River flows just past Chainpur and offers a peaceful walking route. You can see everyday village life — women washing clothes, herders taking cattle across, or elders chatting by the water.

   • Location: Behind main town center

4. Surma Sarovar Trek

   • This sacred lake lies northeast of Chainpur and requires a 2–3 day hike. According to legend, it’s blessed by the goddess Surma. The trail crosses remote villages, forests, and grassy plateaus.

   • Trek starts from Subeda

5. Village Walks – Subeda, Deulekh, and Talkot

   • These nearby villages offer immersive experiences in traditional living. Farming methods, old houses, cultural shrines, and friendly locals await those willing to explore on foot.

   • Accessible via short hikes or local jeep rides

Things to Do in Chainpur

1. Join a Morning Hike – Trails to nearby hilltops or villages are great for sunrises, local encounters, and seeing daily life up close.

2. Trek to Surma Sarovar or Khaptad – Both routes are remote but rewarding. Trekking here is quiet and often without other tourists.

3. Experience a Local Festival – Gaura Parva and Dashain bring out music, dance, and ritual performances like Deuda — a must-see for cultural travelers.

4. Attend the Haat Bazaar – Every Saturday, vendors line the streets with spices, grains, livestock, and household goods. A great place to observe trade and meet people.

5. Visit Local Workshops – Blacksmiths and silversmiths continue to use age-old techniques. Watching them work is fascinating and sometimes, you can even buy handmade items.

6. Relax by the River – Chainpur encourages stillness. A quiet hour by the Seti River, watching the hills or listening to the water, feels like meditation.

What to Eat in Chainpur

1. Kodo Ko Roti – Thick flatbread made from millet flour. Served with butter, chutney, or gundruk soup.

2. Sisnu Tarkari – Nettle curry seasoned with garlic and salt. Known for its health benefits and earthy flavor.

3. Mas Ko Dal – Black lentils slow-cooked with turmeric and local ghee. Often served with rice.

4. Aaloo Tama – A tangy potato and bamboo shoot curry often eaten with rice or roti.

5. Chaku with Ghee – A rich and sweet molasses paste combined with clarified butter. Common during winter for energy.

6. Seasonal Snacks – Roasted corn, chiura (flattened rice), and wild berries are common roadside munchies.

In many households, guests are served raksi (homemade liquor). If offered, accept modestly or decline politely — it’s part of local hospitality.

Where to Stay

Chainpur doesn’t have star-rated hotels, but options are available for backpackers and slow travelers.

1. Hotel Bajhang View – Close to the market, offers basic private rooms and local food.

2. Chainpur Lodge – Slightly larger rooms with attached bathrooms. Popular with government staff and local travelers.

3. Homestays in Subeda and Deulekh – Family-run stays where you get simple food, clean rooms, and genuine connection with the host family.

Tip: Always carry a flashlight and sleeping bag if heading to villages. Power cuts and cold nights are common.

Travel Tips

• Cash First: There are few ATMs and digital payments are rare. Carry enough Nepali rupees.

• Phone & Internet: NTC has better coverage than Ncell. Expect weak mobile internet.

• Dress Modestly: Especially in temples and during village visits.

• Ask Before Photos: It’s respectful to ask before photographing people, especially elders and women.

• Local Guides: Hire locals if trekking. They know the terrain and appreciate the work.

• Weather: October to April is ideal. Avoid July–September due to monsoon landslides.

Hidden Gems

• Deuda Dance Evenings: Check with locals during festivals for locations and timing. These are lively, authentic cultural events.

• Stone Stairways: Behind the bazaar, these old paths lead to hilltop shrines or abandoned watchtowers.

• Blacksmith Lanes: Tiny alleys where khukuris, sickles, and jewelry are still made by hand — often passed down through generations.

• Old Government Buildings: Some structures date back to the early Rana period and contain preserved wood carvings and documents.

• Birdwatching Ridges: Eastern hills offer sunrise views and birdsong with zero crowds.

Useful Local Phrases

• Namaste – Hello

• Khana khanu bhayo? – Have you eaten?

• Yo kati ho? – How much is this?

• Malai sahayog chaahincha. – I need help.

• Yatra subha hos. – Have a good journey

• Tapaiko ghar kaha ho? – Where is your home?

Even if your Nepali isn’t fluent, just trying a few words will earn warm smiles.

How to Get to Chainpur

• By Air: Fly to Dhangadhi from Kathmandu (1 hr). Then take a shared jeep or private hire to Chainpur (10–12 hrs).

• By Road: From Dhangadhi → Dadeldhura → Doti → Chainpur. Roads are scenic but rough. 4WD vehicles are best.

• Inside Chainpur: Most exploration is on foot. Shared jeeps go to surrounding villages. Motorbike rentals are limited but possible.

Final Thoughts

Chainpur isn’t on glossy brochures or luxury travel lists. But that’s exactly why it’s special.

This is a place where hospitality is real, not rehearsed. Where temples are old and still alive. Where the pace is slow, but the smiles are instant. It’s not for everyone — but for travelers who want depth over decoration, Chainpur offers something rare.

Come here if you want to unplug, to walk village trails, to sip tea by a fire, or to listen to stories told without microphones. Stay for a few days and let the silence, the culture, and the kindness stay with you longer than any photo could.

Chainpur may not be the easiest place to reach, but that’s often true of the most meaningful places.